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JH climbers set new route in Cambodia


Wednesday, January 24, 2007 By Sam Petri

On Nov. 30, 2006, a group of four climbers made the first ascent of a 1000-foot vertical granite slab wall in Ton Lope, Cambodia. The route, which they named “The Spirit of Monkwai” (don’t ask), is located on Mount Phnom Bei Sambao, at 451 meters and about five kilometers from the Vietnam border in Southern Cambodia with two variations.

The team included Jackson resident Tim Walther, 34, CEO of local business training and development company Grand Dynamics, Inc.; former Jackson resident Ryan Ernst, 36; Jon Siegrist, 21, of Boulder, Colo.; and Josh Morris, 30, of Chiang Mai, Thailand. The group met through living in Jackson Hole and climbing internationally.

Morris, owner of Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures, first spotted the rock face a year ago when he was traveling through Cambodia with a group of students. This past November, the four-man team met in Bangkok and from there traveled to Phnom Phen, Cambodia, a city just north of their ultimate goal.

From Phnom Phen they took a cab ride to Ton Lope, a village of no more than 300 people. They could see their objective in the horizon upon arriving in the remote village, close but still out of reach. Renting motorbikes in Ton Lope was impossible, but after making friends with a few local men, the team suddenly had drivers with local knowledge of the dirt roads. After a few days of double riding down dirt roads and bouldering areas that proved productive, the team discovered an overgrown footpath that led to their climb.

On the day of the climb, the team awoke at 5 a.m. and ate a quick breakfast of rice and chicken. By 5:30, they were loaded down with all the gear they’d need for the day, including the must-have machete. On the path, the climbers encountered a group of men that were burning out a section of jungle.

“We were told they were looking for diamonds,” Walther said. They continued on, passing a shrine that “looked like something out of ‘Indiana Jones,’” only to find found that their footpath died out.
From there it was a full-on two hour bushwhack up hill through the jungle, rising about 500 feet to the granite face. When the team reached an opening at the base of the climb, they were able to view their route from a vantage point closer than they had ever been.

“We scoped a good route, but it was unbelievably run out,” said Walther. “There weren’t many spots to place gear.”

The two lower sections of the five-pitch route were very doable – a slab friction climb that took lots of smearing moves. Managing to sling a few horns in the first pitch, Walther soon found his rope running out, and Walther and Morris were forced to simultaneously climb until Walther could make it to a nearby tree to set an anchor.
Walther described the third pitch as “relatively easy with small holds, slabby, probably in the 5.6 range and fairly run out.” Ernst led the pitch with ease and the crew had a momentary celebration as they looked upward toward the fourth pitch.

At this point the team decided to try two separate variations. Walther and Morris climbed the left route they named “Diamonds Are For Never,” referencing both the men they saw on the approach and some second thoughts on marriage. Ernst and Siegrist climbed the right route, which that they named “The Bofang Variation,” a reference to Ernst’s last-minute Cambodian climbing shoe purchase.

As Walther began to lead “Diamonds are for Never,” he took the most direct line possible and placed his first cam 25 feet above the belay ledge. Continuing on another 15 feet, Walther found a horn to sling and was forced to feel comfortable with that. Climbing on and out of site from his partner, Walther searched for areas to place gear but had no such luck. He now found himself 50 feet above his last zone of protection; a fall would mean at least a 100-foot plunge – not an option – Walther pushed on. Finishing the last six moves on the 5.8 pitch, he let out a primal scream of success that his partner answered with, “Rope 1-0!” Walther had topped out with only 10 feet left in the rope.

As the four gathered below the final pitch, they unroped and soloed the friendly final section. They reached the summit with broad grins. “It has been a goal of mine to make a first ascent in a foreign country,” says Walther.

About Grand Dynamics

Grand Dynamics, based in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and with a brand new division in Atlanta, Georgia, is an experiential training and development company specializing in corporate retreats, business consulting, and health and wellness programs. Serving performance-driven organizations and businesses across the nation, Grand Dynamics’ programs are based upon the belief that individuals, teams, and organizations are capable of transcending any of the challenges that stand between them and their highest aspirations. Grand Dynamics helps organizations overcome their toughest challenges, taps into people’s sense of adventure, and pushes the limits of possibility, producing bottom-line business results.